The Cyclades are a series of islands south of the mainland in the Aegean Sea. Santorini and Mykonos are the most popular, epically with the Mama Mia hype. The summer season, also the tourist season, runs from around May to Mid-October. Mykonos and Santorini are still quite busy even at the end of October with cruise ships running through daily. I was looking for a more genuine Greek island experience but not on islands that are already closed down for the season. Milos, Paros and Naxos were recommended to me and they turned out to be a perfect fit.
I've never been on a commercial ferry before and didn't know what to expect. I have to say I was pleasantly surprised. Lots of space, comfortable seats and I didn't get sea sick. I don't love the black smoke bellowing into the sky though. My first ferry was from Athens to Milos. About five hours. I slept through the whole thing.
There are no hostels on the islands but very affordable accommodation. Family run places. I loved supporting them. I checked into a little hotel in Milos called Hotel Dionysis, to find out I was their last guest of the season. They gave me a list of all of the beaches and best restaurants. This was so helpful because although I knew which islands I was going to, I didn't know what I was going to do on each island. Upon arrival I made note that my time on the islands was going to be solo-solo traveling. Not many tourists left, empty restaurants, and quiet streets. I prepared myself for the loneliness that may come with this adventure. I realized later on my island hopping that I was very. very wrong.
I did enjoy Milos alone, though. My book and the island cats kept me company.
With only two days on this sweet little Island, I had a lot to see. I rented an ATV for the day and mapped out where I wanted go. First, the white rock beach, Sarakiniko Beach (it looked like I landed on the moon). Next, Plathena Beach and then dinner in Plaka. The ATV was only 25 Euros a day. They gave me a child sized pink helmet, because it was the only one that fit. I had a blast cruising around the almost vacant island.
The next day I had the morning on Milos until it was time to take another Ferry to the island Naxos. I have a yoga teacher training coming up, and I have barely practiced since I've been traveling. If I have the space and time, I will. But I needed to get back into my flow and this morning on the beach was perfect for it.
I arrived to Paros later in the evening after another five hour ferry trip (only 12 Euros). I spent it working on my blog, writing in my journal and enjoying the sleepy sea. I had time for a gyro and sleep when I arrived.
I stayed in Paros for three nights, in this sweet B&B called Marisa Rooms.
I was so sore after my yoga session on the beach, it was obvious I needed to get back into my practice before India. I was determined to take a yoga class in Paros. I actually found one across the island despite it now being off-season. There was a bus that connected to a neighboring village but no direct route to the studio. I got on the city bus, just the locals and I, made it to the neighboring village and began asking around about how I should get to the studio. The ladies at the local pharmacy sent me to a taxi man, who told me my ten minute drive to the studio would cost 30 Euros. I tried to get him to bring the price down but had no luck and missed the yoga class. This was fine, because I ended up going to a cafe and meeting some awesome locals that shaped the rest of my time in Paros. They're windsurfing instructors, one is the owner of the only windsurfing company on the island. He's a medalist and has traveled the world competing. They've hosted the windsurfing cup and welcome surfers from all over the world. They told me that because it's so slow on the island they're happy to show me around. I took them up on this offer. I've been pretty good at following my intuition, and I had a good feeling about these people.
I was given a tour of the island via motorcycle. They gave me a free windsurfing lesson, I tried cactus, and was invited to a local party. I was the only person there not from the village, which made me nervous at first but I was welcomed with big hugs. The elderly people in the village kissed my cheeks and offered me more food than I could eat but I couldn't deny them. We ate and drank the local wine. There was a band playing well-loved Paros Island songs (mostly about fishing) and I learned the traditional Greek dance which is just a 1-2 step holding hands with the people around you. Sometimes someone in the circle will free style or spin another around. Surprised by my own dancing abilities I picked this up quick. I was told over and over again, "you dance well for an American!". I'm not sure if this is a compliment but I'll take it. I was somehow convinced to eat not one, not two, but SIX of the raw snails passed around the table. The sun set and everyone kept dancing, laughing and singing. This community felt like a big family and I learned quickly that it is. Grandparents, neighbors, and friends all coming together. I felt like the luckiest person in the world to be included in such a beautiful evening, and it all happened because I refused to pay for an overpriced taxi.
I left Paros the next day with a full heart. I could've stayed longer, maybe forever. I was actually offered a home (I'm not kidding) and a full time position at the surf shop. But Naxos awaited me and I've learned that sometimes it's better to leave a place while you're still having fun. I know I can always come back to Paros and be welcomed with open arms.
My next, and last stop in the Cyclades, is the island Naxos. Which is known, according to Greek mythology, as the Island Zeus was raised on. I only had a little more than 24 hours on Naxos before it was time to get back to Athens for my flight to India. I stayed at Hotel Zeus, that luckily took me in without a reservation. I made it to the island just in time for the one of the most magical sunsets I've seen in my life. First, I watched the sun go down behind ancient ruins, The Marble Gate of Portara. There were quite a bit of people up on the hill taking photos and enjoying it. I remembered from the previous night at the party on Paros that the moon will be full, and it will quickly follow the sunset. I stayed up on the hill after the sun set while almost everyone else left and I'm so glad I did. Slowly, behind the mountains the giant, glowing, full moon peaked out in all her glory.
There were a few of us that bonded up there, all equally in awe over this scene, so we decided to get dinner together. A german solo-woman traveler, a firefighter from France and his step brother. We spent hours in a local tavern, chatting and learning about each other. After a lot of conversation, we found out that each of us had lost our fathers. The sweet german girl and I recently, the firefighter and his brother when they were young. I've been missing and thinking about my dad more than ever recently, wishing I could call him and tell him about my travels. I think we gave each other a little bit of comfort we all needed. I took it as a sign from dad that I'm not alone.
The next day I had a Ferry booked for Athens at 6pm. I had just enough time to hike to the top of Mount Zeus and was determined to do it. I got up early, grabbed a quick breakfast and rented a car. The cheapest one I could find. The rental car employee didn't believe that I could drive manual and I had to prove it to them! I drove my little car into the mountains and began the journey up. The whole hike took around four hours. I was alone for most of it. I passed the cave where Zeus lived but I was too scared to go inside. I've never seen anything so dark. My primal instincts said nope, let's not go inside the deep dark cave.
I got to the top of the mountain, and a bunch of clouds came in, so I had to use my imagination for the view. The clouds did break for a second and I got to see the whole island below. Sorry, no picture. That's how quick it was. Only me, some mountain goats and a few really nice Canadians at the top that took my picture.
The sun did come out on the way down :)
I had a wonderful post-hike meal at a tavern in the village below. You know the food is amazing when the menu looks like this.
I made it to my ferry in time to enjoy my last sunset on the island, with a friend.
My Europe chapter has ended, and it's time to start new in India. I'm prepared for the contrast I will experience between these two places and I'm so excited and curious for what's ahead. From Portugal, to Spain, Southern France, Switzerland, Vienna, Amalfi Coast, Athens and the Greek Islands; I have experienced a lifetime of connection, adventure and amazing food. I've explored only a percentage of this diverse continent and I know I'll be back for more. Two months isn't even enough time to take it all in. I'm leaving Europe better knowing myself and this part of the world. I'm most grateful for the people I've met though. Lizzie, Jess, Rafael, Chris, Janouk, James, Ailish, Lizzy, Gabriel, Maria, Andre, Nathaniel, Mike, Tami, Erin, Alden, Elvira, the Roses, Alexia, Henrike, Micheal, Greta, Casper, Toby, my Alani Theo, Julia, Emily, George and Kash. My amazing friends from home that visited me, Andrew, Mads, Alaiyah and Myah. The best hosts on the continent, The Schynders, Jérôme and Julia. A place doesn't necessarily have impact on it's own, it's the people that give it life and make it memorable. This solo traveling is turning out to be not so solo.
My next adventrue is a one moth yoga teacher Rishikesh, India. I'm not sure what my internet connection will be like at the ashram, but I do know I want to be as disconnected as possible. That being said, I'll be back at the end of November! Hugs and kisses to my people back home, and skol Viks!! Thank you everyone who's been following along. What's a trip like this with no one to share it with?
At the moment...
Listening to: Treat You Better Rufus Du Sol
Reading: Shantaram Gregory David Roberts
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