Koh Tao: My Last Moments in Thailand, Underwater

I have only one week left in Thailand before I fly to Arizona for one of my best friend’s wedding. Some things you just can’t miss and this is one for me. I can’t believe how quickly this wedding approached though. Half of me is excited to get back on U.S soil and the other half of me is already missing the East. I spent my last week in Thailand soaking up every moment, big and small, trying to be present despite only booking a one-way ticket to the U.S. More to come on this. 

The island of Koh Tao is known for the least expensive scuba diving open water certification in the world, it also happens to be one of the most beautiful islands in Thailand with tons of sea life. There’s no scuba diving in Minnesota but as I’ve been traveling I’ve picked up the idea of exploring the underwater world. The ocean covers more than 70% of the world. What kind of world traveler only explores 30%?

I booked with a dive center last minute. It’s called Nitro and it was recommended to me. What I didn’t know when I signed up is that it’s a Spanish company. Most lessons are in Spanish and it attracts many Hispanic and Latino/Latina people. This was fine though, my instructor did everything in English for my group. Such a fun vibe on the boat and in the classroom. Always playing music, having a good time, these scuba instructors have quite the job. 

I found some really cheap accommodation near by, so cheap that they didn’t even have an established name and their balcony was occupied by telephone wires hanging from above. But I had a bed so I was happy. I spent all day diving anyway.

The dive schedule looked like this: 

Day 1 

9:00-10:30 academic class 

12:30-17:00 2 dives max deep 12 meters 

Day 2 

9:00-10:30 academic class 

12:30-17:00 2 dives max deep 15meters 

Day 3 

6:30-11:00 2 dives max deep 18 meters

I learned about how the equipment works, the gas mixtures, to never hold your breath and ascend slowly. There are a lot of components and I was a little nervous about going under but once we started and I figured out how to control my breathing it was a breeze. We had a few skill tests we had to pass. Like removing our googles completely underwater and putting them back on while clearing out the excess water, manually inflating our buoyancy jackets, and providing emergency air to someone with an empty tank. These were kind of fun for me, like little challenges. There was some studying to do for a multiple choice test at the end of the course. I actually enjoyed studying, reviewing Boule’s law and such. 

On our last day we did 2 deep dives, down to 18 meters. We took a boat far out into the dive site and went under. There is an underwater mountain of bright coral with the most colorful variety of fish I’ve ever seen. I saw sting rays, puffer fish, trigger fish, clown fish, crabs, the whole finding Nemo cast. I wish I had the right gear for my GoPro to go down this deep but the memories I have are so vibrant. Scuba diving feels like flying. There is no pressure or force on your body, breath is slow and easy, it’s quiet.. I’d argue this is like meditation. Time and gravity don’t exist. 45 minutes under water goes by too fast. 

I finished the open water certification and had a few extra days in Koh Tao. I rented the cheapest scooter I could find, it was covered in scratches and I loved it. I booked a hostel up in the jungle, Deishaview Jungle Hostel, and this ended up being one of my favorite hostels. Away from the city center (up and down the side of a mountain), beautiful views and a good social vibe. I met a small group of travelers from Turkey, the Netherlands, and Finland. The invited me to go with them to get some mango sticky rice and then check out this snorkeling point up the island. We spent the next days together, hanging out and exploring what the island has to offer. 

We were on the hunt to see sea turtles. This seemed to be the main mission of everyone on the island. You’d meet someone new and they’d ask if you’d seen a sea turtle yet that day. If you hadn’t they’ll pass any information they know about where they are. It all seems to be word of mouth. It took me about three days but after asking around I learned that there’s a really old sea turtle that comes close to shore every evening to eat at Shark Bay. There’s a big, run down tour boat that takes snorkelers there right before sunset. My friend Jami and I got out snorkel sets and went searching. I finally located the sea turtle and almost drown I was so excited. 

In the evenings we’d check out different sunset view points and play cards. I taught the crew gin rummy like a good midwesterner. We jokingly renamed our hostel to "The Pension House”. I spent my last day in Koh Tao at the hostel, which may sound like a waste of a last day but for me this was exactly where I wanted to be. I’m going to be away from this atmosphere for a while. I love the mix of accents, the travel stories, how no conversation is “too deep”, the laughter and community that’s formed when you put a bunch of backpackers into a shared space. 

I said goodbye to these lovely people and took a 2 hour ferry, 6 hour bus and 1 hour taxi to another hostel in Bangkok. I fell asleep peacefully but woke up in a panic. It hit me I’m going home (kind of). I don’t know exactly what I’m going to do after this wedding, where I’m going to go next, and I’m not going to make this decision until I feel ready. I’ve been back and forth about where I’ll be a month from now and I find the most peace when I just drop it and see where these next few weeks reunited with my friends and family takes me. I the have momentum to keep going. I originally set out to travel for a year. I’m not hell bent on this but my heart is telling me I’m not quite finished either. It’s been a long seven months… wild, beautiful, but long. My mind and body is craving some rest. I’m in need for some contrast, some reflection. I don’t want to become numb to any of these experiences. I’m so lucky to have my mom, sister and my neighbors that are basically my family, come visit me in Arizona before the wedding. This is all I can think ahead to. I can’t wait to squeeze them. 

I spent my last night in Thailand Bangkok style. No sleep. Fight at 8am. A group from my hostel went to a jazz bar. A few others had early flights as well and we decided to just stay awake to help ourselves begin to adjust to the time zone.. and there was no way we’d leave Bangkok on a low. The bar hosted band after band. Thais and westerners dancing together. I looked at the time and it was almost 3am. We went out with a bang, and prepared myself for 30+ hours of traveling east ahead, following the same day around the globe. 

Here is what I like to call the “Longest F**king Thursday Ever”:

12am: Bangkok Saxophone club 

4am: 1hr taxi to Bangkok airport

8am: 6hr flight to Tokyo

5pm: 10hr flight to Las Angeles

4pm: missed flight to Phoenix 

7pm: 1hr flight to Phoenix

8pm: meet family in Gold Canyon, AZ 

9pm: dinner, give gifts & catch up 

12am: sleep 

I blew a little kiss from my airplane window. This country has had a special place in my heart for a few years now, and the past two months only solidified it. It's kindness, beauty, simplicity and adventure make it one of my favorite places on earth. That kiss was for Thailand but it was also for every place I visited in the past seven months. From Lisbon to Bangkok. To the people I met that changed my life, whether they knew it or not. To who I was on September 1st, 2023 to who I am now. To the tremendous support I’ve been given from near and far. 

I can’t promise anything to anyone or even myself at this point. I’m so deep in going with the flow. But I know from my heart, a place I’ve gotten to know pretty well lately, the traveler in me isn’t finished quite yet. It’s just a matter of when, where and how. Patiently waiting for that spark to lead me to the next destination. 

THANK YOU for following along my journey. This really wouldn’t be the same without knowing there are incredible people cheering me on from around the globe. You’ve given me a greater purpose than what I originally l sought out for. It means everything to me, to put it lightly. We’ll see where this journey of a lifetime takes me next! 

Until then, 

xoxoxo -Han  

Time to get Michaela married!! 

South Africa, 2019